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TEMPLES IN GOA
The
Shri Lakshmi Narasimha Temple
Crouched
on the side of a steep, densely wooded hill, the secluded Shri Lakshmi
Narasimha Mandir at Velinga, 3 K.M southwest of Mardol, is one of
the more picturesque temple around Ponda. To the west of Farmagudi
about 1.5 K.M to Velinga Village.
Transferred
here from Salcete in 1567, the Lakshmi-Narasimha devta housed inside
this temple, a conventional eighteenth-century structure surrounded
by neat lawns and pilgrim's hostels, is Vishnu's in his fourth incarnation
as the man-lion Narashima, aka Narayan fed by an eternal spring,
this is fringed by lush curtain of coconut palms.
The
Shri Nagesh Temple
At
Farmagudi, dominated by a statue of the Maharatha leader Shivaji,
in the valley, carpeted with cashew trees and dense thickets of
palms, is Shri Nagesh temple at Bandora, 4K.M northwest of Ponda.
Established
at the beginning of fifteenth century and later renovated by Maharathas,
Shri Nagesh is older than most of its neighbors, although stylistically
very much in the same mould, with the usual domed shikhara, or terracotta-tiled
roofs and gaudy goan Decor. In the entrance porch is a stately black
Nandi bull, vehicle of the temple's chief deity, Shiva, here known
as Naguesh. The multicolored wood carvings run in a continues frieze
along the tops of the pillars. These depict scenes from the Hindu
epic Ramayana, in which the God Rama (Vishnu's seventh incarnation)
with the help of Hanuman's monkey army, rescues his wife Sita from
the clutches of arch demon Ravana. After the great battle, the couple
are reunited back home in Ayodhya, as shown in one of the last panels.
The silver-doored sanctum (garbhagriha), flanked by subsidiary shrines
dedicated to Lakshmi-Narayan and the elephant-headed Ganesh, houses
a Shiva devta. The lingam carved with the face of Shiva the God
known as Mukhaling. The temple tank, whose murky green waters are
teeming with fish. The foundation of this Temple was laid in 1413.
The
Shri Shantadurga Temple
Standing
with its back to a wall of thick forest and its front Facing a flat
expanse of open rice field, Shri Shantadurga is Goa's largest and
most famous temple, and the principal port of call on the region's
Hindu pilgrimage circuit. 4K.M from northwest of Ponda.
The
steps lead to Shri Shantadurga's main entrance and courtyard, enclosed
by office and blocks of modern pilgrim's hostels, and dominated
by a brilliant-white six storey deepmal. The russet and cream-coloured
temple, crowned with a huge domed sanctuary tower, was erected by
the Maharatha Chief Shivaji's grandson, Shahu Raja, in 1738, some
two centuries after its presiding deity had been brought here from
Quelossim in Marmugao taluka, a short way inland from the north
end of Colva Beach.
The
interior of the building, dripping with marble and glass chandelier,
is dominated by an exquisitely worked silver screen, sits the garlanded
Shantadurga devi, flanked by images of Vishnu and Shiva. According
to Hindu mythology, Durga, another name for Shiva's consort, Parvati,
the goddess of Peace, resolved a violent dispute between her husband
and rival God Vishnu, hence her position between them in the shrine,
and the prefix Shanta, meaning "peace", that was henceforth
added to her name.
Along
the passage leading left to the subsidiary shrine where Shantadurga
sleeps. The Devi's colossal raths; during the annual February Zatra
Festival held here, these elaborately carved wooden chariots are
pulled around the precinct by teams of honoured devotees.
The
Shri Ramnath Temple
The
entrance hall tacked into it in 1905, the Shri Ramnath temple, 500m
north from Shri Shantadurga is one of Ponda's Monuments. The opulently
decorated silver screen in front of the main shrine, the most extravagant
of its kind in Goa. Brought from Lutolim in Salcete taluka in the
sixteenth century, the lingam housed behind it is worshipped by
devotees of the Shaivite and Vaishnavite sects of Hinduism, Shri
Ramnath being the form of Shiva propitiated by Lord Rama before
he embarked on his mission to save Sita from the clutches of the
evil Ravana.
Khandepar
Hidden
deep in dense woodland near the village of Khandepar, 5K.M northeast
of Ponda on the NH4, is a group of four tiny freestanding rock-cut
cave temples, gouged out of solid laterite some time between the
ninth and tenth centuries AD. They are among Goa's oldest historical
monuments but are also virtually impossible to find without the
help of guide or knowledgeable local. The way from the Khandepar
crossroads, where the buses from Ponda pull in.
Set
back in the forest behind a slowly meandering tributary of the Mandovi
river, the four caves each consist of two simple cells hewn from
a single hillock. Their tiered roofs, now a jumble of wee choked
blocks,m are thought to have been added in the tenth or eleventh
centuries, probable by the Kadambas, who converted them into Hindu
temples. Prior to that, they wee almost certainly Buddhist sanctuaries,
occupied by a small community of monks. The inside of the caves
with the torch can be scanned and one can make out the carved pegs
used for hanging robes and cooking utensils. The niches in the walls
were for oil lamps. The outer cell of cave one also has lotus medallions
carved into its ceiling, a typically Kadamban motif that was added
at roughly the same time as the stepped roofs.
Chandranath
Temple
Southeast
of Margao, Salcete, perched on top of a hill, dating to the fifth
century. The sanctuary and linga are carved out on the hill.
Parvath
In
the southeastern corner of Salcete taluka, a semicircular ride of
hills blister out of the coastal plain, cloaked with deep green
forest and crowned by a solitary temple spire. The cream-and red-painted
Shri Chandeshwar (or Bhutnath) temple at Parvath, 12 K.M southeast
of Margao on the main Quepem road, sits on the top of Chandranath
Hill with spellbinding views from its 370 metre summit. Increasingly
grandiose glimpses of the Goan hinterland were revealed through
the cashew trees, while the boulder-strewn clearing at the top affords
a sweeping vista of sand-fringed toddi forest, sprinkled with all
village. This panorama is at its most serene around dusk, when the
sun sinks into the sea behind a haze of wood-smoke, produced by
the cooking fires below on the plain.
According
to an ancient Sanskrit inscription, a temple has stood on this magical
spot for nearly 2500 years. However, the present building, dedicated
to Shiva, is comparatively modern, dating from the late 1600s. The
only part of the shrine that is definitely a vestige of the Vedic
age is its cavernous inner sanctum, hollowed from a hug back bolder,
around which the site's seventeenth-century custodians erected a
typically Goan-style structure, capped with a red-tile room and
domed sanctuary tower.
Chandranath
Hill peters out at a small car park just below Parvath, from where
a long flight of steps fashioned from discarded slabs of twelfth-century
building leads steeply up to the temple. Pilgrims arrive the main
entrance for darshan, or the ritual viewing of the God. A wild-eyed
golden Chandreshwar deity, Shiva as "Lord of Moon", stares
out from an ornately decorated sanctum, wrapped in brocaded silk.
His accessory deities, or pariwar devtas-medieval images of Shiva's
consort and son, Parvathi and elephant-headed Ganesh respectively,
sculpted in stone - are housed in small niches to rear of the shrine.
This circumambulatory passage, which has to be walked around in
clockwise direction, hugs the base of the boulder that forms the
temple's heart A small Nandi Bull lies among the from which the
view west out to sea and south across the Assolna estuary to the
Cabo Da Rama headland.
Rock-cut
Temple
At
Arvalem, Bicholim, date to the third and sixth centuries AD and
were possibly Buddhist in origin, Within are Shiva Lingas.
Shri
Bhagavati Temple
In
Parcem, Pernerm, is a rare temple where Brahma is worshipped. Two
five-storey lamp towers flank the facade.
Sri
Datta Mandir
Near
Saquelim Bridge, Bicholim, is a small temple, with a blue multi-tiered
tower, surrounded by peepul and kadamba trees.
Sri
Mahalasa Temple
In
Mardol, is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The deity was from an older
temple in Mormugao taluka. In the courtyard is an impressive brass
pillar set on a turtle's back and surmounted by Garuda, Vishnu's
vehicle. The turtle represents Kurma, Vishnu's second avatar (incarnation).
Sri
Mahalakshmi Temple
At
Bandora, was founded in the 15th century and dedicated to Lakshmi,
Vishnu's consort. The deity was brought here from Colva in 1565.
Sri
Mangesh Temple
In
Priol, is Goa's richest and most important temple, dedicated to
Lord Shiva. The symbolic linga in the sanctum sanctum, was rescued
before the original temple in Cortalim was destroyed and brought
here by ferry. The temple is built around a huge water tank, the
largest in Goa. A seven-storey lamp tower stands before the main
entrance to the temple.
Sri
Saptakoteshwar Temple
In
Naroa, Bicholim, is dedicated to the Kadamba's favourite deity.
This temple was moved here from Divar Island and sponsored by the
Great Maratha, Shivaji in 1668. The Shiva linga has rope marks as
it was used by the Portuguese to draw water.
Tambdi
Surla Temple
Beyond
Sancordem, Sanguem, is one of goa's oldest temples dating to the
13th century. The small, beautifully carved and perfectly proportioned
black basalt temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is reminiscent of
Aihole's temples in neighbouring Karnataka.
Hindu
Gods and Goddesses
Vishnu
The
chief function of this God is to protect and restore the world.
With four arms holding a conch, discus, lotus and Mace. Vishnu is
blue skinned and often shaded by a serpent, or resting on its coils,
afloat on the ocean. He is often seen alongside his half-man-half-eagle
vehicle, Garuda.
Vaishnavites
Often
distinguishable by two vertical lines on their forehead, recognize
Vishnu as supreme lord and hold that he has manifested himself on
earth nine times. These incarnations, or (kuma) boar (Varaha) man
- lion (narsingh), dwarf (Varmana), axe-wielding brahmin (Parsuram),
Rama, Krishna and Balaram to earth as Kalki, the saviour that will
come to restore purity and destroy the wicked, is eagerly awaited.
Krishna
The
Most important avatars are Krishna and rama. Krishna is the hero
of the Bhagavad Gita, in which he proposes three routes to salvation
(moksha): selfless action (Karmayoga), knowledge (jnana) and devotion
to God (bhakti) and explains that moksha is the attainable in this
life, even without asceticism and reunciation. This appealed to
all caste, as it denied the necessity of ritual and officiating
Brahmin priests, and evolved into the popular bhakti cult that legitimised
love of God as a means to moksha, and found expression in emotional
songs of the quest for union with God. Through bhakti, Krishna's
role was extended, and he assumed different faces; most popular
he is cowherd who seduces and dances with cowgirls (gopis) giving
each the illusion that she is his only lover. He is also pictured
as a small, chubby, mischievous baby, known for his butter - stealing
exploits, who inspires tender motherly love in women. Like Vishnu,
Krishna is blue, and often shown dancing and playing the flute.
Popular legend has it that Krishna was born in Mathura, today a
major pilgrimage centre, and sported with his gopis in nearby Vrindavan
He also established a kingdom on the far western coast of Gujarat,
at Dwarka.
Rama
Is
the Chief Character in the Ramayana born a prince in Ayodhya, he
was denied succession to the throne by one of his father's wives
and was exiled for fourteen years, together with his wife Sita.
The Ramayana details his exploits during these years, and his defeat
of the demon King of Lanka, Ravana. When Rama was reinstated as
king in Ayodhya, he put Sita through "trial by fire" to
prove that she had remained pure while in the clasps of Ravana.
Sita passed the trial unharmed and is held up as the paradigm of
women - faithful, pure and honest.
Shiva
Shaivism
the cult of Shiva was also inspired by bhakti, requiring selfless
love from devotees in a quest for divine communion, but Shiva has
never been incarnate on earth. He is presented in many different
aspects, such as Nataraja Lord of dance, Mahadev, great God, and
Maheshvar Divine lore, source of all knowledge. Though he does have
several terrible forms, his role extends beyond that of the destroyer,
and he is revered as the source of the whole universe. Shiva is
often depicted with four or five faces, holding a trident, draped
with serpents and bearing a third eye in his forehead. In temples,
he is identified with the lingam, or female sexuality. Whether as
statue or lingam, Shiva is guarded by his bull-mount, Nandi, and
often accompanied by a consort, who also assumes various forms,
and is looked upon as the vital energy, Shiva, the empowers him.
The erotic exploits were a favorite sculptural between the ninth
and twelfth centuries, most unashamedly in carvings on the temples
of Khajuraho,, in Madhya Pradesh. While Shiva is the object of popular
devotion all over India, as the terrible Bhairav he is also the
God of the Shaivite ascetics, who renounce family and caste ties
and perform extreme meditative and yogic practices. Many, though
not all, smoke ganja, Dhiva's favorite her: all see renunciation
and realisation of God as the key to moksha. Some ascetic practices
enter the realm of tantrism, in which confrontation with all that's
impure, such as alcohol, death and sex, is used to merge the sacred
and the profane, and bring about the profound realisation that Shiva
is omnipresent.
Ganesh
Chubby
and smiling, elephant-headed Ganesh, the first son of Shiva and
Parvati, is invoked before every undertaking (except funerals).
Seated on a throne or lotus, his image is often placed above temple
gateway, in shops and houses; in his four arms he holds a conch,
discus, bowl of sweets (or club) and a water lily, and he's always
attended by his vehicle, a rat. Credited with writing the Mahabharata
as it was dictated by the sage Vyasa, Ganesh is regarded by many
as the god of learning, the lord of success, prosperity and peace.
Durga
The
fiercest of the female deities, is an aspect of Shiva's more conservative
consort, Parvati (also known as Uma), who is remarkable only for
her beauty and fidelity. In whatever form, Shiva's consort is shakti,
the fundamental energy that spurs him into action. Among Durga's
many aspects, each a terrifying goddess eager to slay demons, are
Chamunda, Kali and Murktakeshi, but in all her forms she is Mahadevi
(Great Goddess). Statues show her with ten arms, holding the head
of a spear, and other weapons; she tramples demons underfoot, or
dances upon Shiva's body. A garland of skulls drapes her neck, and
her tongue hangs from her mouth, dripping with blood - a particularly
gruesome sight on pictures of Kali. Durga is much venerated in Bengal;
in all her temples, animal sacrifices are a crucial element of worship,
to satisfy her thirst for blood and deter her ruthless anger.
Lakshmi
The
comely goddess Lakshmi, usually shown sitting or standing on a lotus
flower, and sometimes called Padma (lotus is the embodiment of loveliness,
grace and charm, and the goddess of prosperity and wealth. Vishnu's
consort, she appears in different aspects alongside each of his
avatars, the most important are Sita, wife of Rama, and Radha, Krishna's
favorite gopi. In many temples she is shown with Vishnu, in the
form of Lakshmi Narayan.
Karttikeya
Though
some legends claim that his mother was Ganga or even Agni, Karttikeya
is popularly believed to be the second son of Shiva and Parvati.
Primarily a god of war, he popular among the northern Guptas, who
worshiped him as Skanda, and the southern Chaluukyas, for whom he
was Subrahmanya. Usually shown with six faces, and standing upright
with bow and arrow, Karttikeya is commonly petitioned for those
wishing for male offspring.
Hanuman
India's
great monkey God, Hanuman features in the Ramayana as Rama's chief
aide in the fight against the demon-king of Lanka. Depicted as a
giant monkey clasping a mace, Hanuman is the deity of acrobats and
wrestlers but is also seen as Rama and Sita's greatest devote, and
an author of Sanskrit grammar. As his representatives, monkeys find
sanctuary in temples all over India.
Saraswati
The
most beautiful Hindu goddess Saraswati the wife of Brahma with her
flawless milk-white complexion, sits or stands on a water lily or
peacock, playing a lute, sitar or vina. Associated with the river
saraswati, mentioned in the rig veda she is seen as a goddess of
purification and fertility, but is also revered as the inventor
or writing, the queen of eloquence and goddess of music.
Sani
Closely
linked with the planet Saturn, Sani is feared for his destructive
powers. His image, black statue with protruding blood-red tongue,
is often found on street corners; strings of green chilies, and
lemon are hung in shops and houses each Saturday (saniwar) to war
of his evil influences
Khamdenu
Mention
must also be made of the sacred cow Khamdenu, who receives devotion
through the respect shown to all cows, left to amble through streets
and temples all over India. The origin of the cow's sanctity is
uncertain, some myths record all over India. The origin of the cow's
sanctity is uncertain, some myths record that Brahma created cows
at the same time as Brahmins to provide ghee (clarified butter)
for use in priestly ceremonies. To this day cow dung and urine are
used to purify houses (in fact the urine keeps insects at bay) and
the killing or harming by any Hindu is a grave offence. The cow
is often referred to as mother of Gods. And each part of its body
is significant; its horns symbolise the Gods, its face the sun and
Moon, its shoulders Agni (God of fire) and its legs the Himalaya.

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